The FEAR Periods

The first 8+ weeks, your puppy was with us, receiving lots of good, positive socialization.  Their whelping box was in our family room / kitchen, and they were in the middle of our family life.  At different times, they heard children, stomping, running, wii-mote sounds, computer games, dishwasher, washer and dryer, babies crying, doorbell ringing, and hundreds of other noises.  They had quiet, calm time.  They had time to explore on many different surfaces.  They met lots of children and friends who came over to play, snuggle, talk to, and adore them.  They had a very positive start, and we worked diligently to ensure that your puppies early development was social and happy, with lots of great experiences.

So, why now is your social, happy puppy suddenly jumping at strange sounds, and panicking at new (or not-so new) situations? Why are they suddenly scared of the sound their dog tag makes on their food dish, or terrified of going on their normal walk?

First of all, take a deep breath, and stop stressing.  This behavior is a NORMAL STAGE of puppy development.  How you handle this stage is important, but you didn't do anything to cause this stage of development.  Now that you can let go of some of that "puppy-owner-guilt", remember that your puppy WILL pick up on how you are feeling and how you react to this stage.  If you are stressed, he will think "See, I should be worried about this, because my human is worried!"

The best thing to do is stay calm and positive.  Never punish or scold your puppy for being scared, all that will do is reinforce their fear.  Also be cautious not to coddle and pet your puppy.  What comforts us as people, doesn't give comfort to a dog, trying to soothe them is like saying: "You are right, that IS scary!"   Stay positive but firm, and MOVE FORWARD!

If walks are causing panic, work with your puppy.  Have him on a leash, and walk with him several times a day.  When he starts to slow down, or plant his feet down, encourage him: "Come on buddy, we're headed to the park!  Good job!".  When they sit or try to high tail it home, do not let them.  Each time, stay calm, and don't let your puppy dwell on the fear.  Pick them up, set them on their feet, and keep going, encouraging them with a happy, calm voice.

There are a lot of good articles written on the fear periods, so I will share those.  I encourage you to stay calm, reassure yourself that you are doing great, and remember that your puppy just needs you to show him the way!

Each bullet is a link, I found each of these articles helpful in their own way:

• Good article on how to handle your puppy's fear
• This isn't your puppy's only fear stage - here's a general schedule
• This article reminds us: "It may be easier to leave them home rather than take them on walks where a meltdown happens every block or so, but it's imperative to get them out in the world and continue their socialization."
• Article: Don't punish, but also don't coddle!
• Great information and advice
• Development, including fear period information

We hope these help.  Our intent is NOT to replace working with a trainer, so if you have additional concerns, a good trainer that works with POSITIVE training techniques may be able to offer some hands-on advice and training.  

Behavior 101: Puppy Biting!

As Koda's puppies reach their teething stage, we've gotten several questions about the best way to stop puppy biting.  First of all, it is VERY NORMAL at this age (3-5 months) for your puppy to mouth / bite on toys, furniture, and YOU.  However, they need to learn very quickly "bite-inhibition", and that is now up to you.

While your puppies were here with their mama and littermates, they practiced playing and play-fighting.  They would nip at each other, bite, tug, and tackle.  However, if they played too rough, or dug those sharp little teeth in, their littermate would yelp, and refuse to play.  Very quickly, each puppy began to learn that if they were too rough, they didn't get played with.  This is our recommended technique for dealing with puppy biting.  When your pup sinks those teeth in, give a high pitched yelp, and turn away.  Ignore them for 20-30 seconds, then you can go back to giving them attention. NEVER hit them or hurt them for biting, it gives conflicting messages to the puppy and does NOT HELP!

Right now, those baby teeth are bugging them.  They are getting ready to lose them in the next couple months, making way for their adult teeth.  But, learning how to mouth softly and be gentle is VITAL right now.  They have those sharp little teeth, but not a lot of jaw-strength.  Once those adult teeth come in, they aren't so sharp, but their jaw becomes more powerful, and can do damage.  They need to learn bite-inhibition now, so please work diligently with them.

Tip: Don't play Tug-o-War with your puppy, as it encourages biting and is detrimental to learning bite-inhibition.

Here's some more good reading on this topic:

• Puppy Biting by Dog Star Daily
• Puppy Biting 101 by the Rancho Coastal Human Society
• How to Stop a Puppy From Biting by Dog Training Central
• How to Train a Puppy that Bites by WebMD

Hope that helps :-)

Puppy Development

Puppy training encompasses so many different points.  There's housebreaking & potty training, kennel training, obedience training, socialization, and more.  What do you focus on when, and how?

The "Developmental Stages" of puppies. 

Their first 7-10 weeks with us included lots of developmental opportunities, including neurological stimulation, daily one-on-one time with each puppy, plenty of household noises (vacuum, kids, infants, fans, etc), exposure to new surfaces (wood, tile, linoleum, carpet, cement, grass, etc), lots of playtime with mama and littermates, playtime with new people, and much more.  We worked with them every day to come home to you well socialized and well rounded.  

Now it's up to you! 

Our main thoughts on the puppy time period (and links to helpful reading!):

~ Socialize, socialize, socialize!  Let friends come over and give treats to your puppy.  Expose your puppy to new sounds and experiences.  If something sets them off, or freaks them out, gently repeat that something with treats, and work to help your puppy associate it with positive reinforcements.  A great socializing opportunity can be found in puppy training classes.

~ Be aware of the "fear period(s)".  Puppies tend to have these periods from 8-11 weeks, and again around 6-14 months.  Work to make sure that they have lots of great experiences!  

~ Be cautious of Parvo.  It can affect any dog, but puppies are the most vulnerable.  There is never any guarantee even if you are cautious, but little things can help a lot. 

• Protecting Your Dog from Parvovirus by the Whole Dog Journal
• Parvo: An Introduction by the Veterinary Insider
• The Importance of Proper Parvo Protection by Randy Walker, DVM

Most of all, let your Berner be a member of your family!  Like children, they need boundaries and firm rules, but thrive under love and gentle kindness!

Berner-Garde

We have added Koda and her puppies to the Berner-Garde Database (We added individual owner info as "private" so you can decide if you would like to participate)

The Berner-Garde Foundation was established to collect, maintain and disseminate information about genetic diseases observed in the Bernese Mountain Dog.

 Its goal is to help breeders reduce genetic disease while breeding for good temperament and type.

In the future, this collection of information will be the basis for studies researching the cause of genetic disease. 

 It is the hope of all who know and love a Berner that the work of Berner-Garde will lead to an understanding of genetic disease in the breed. 

We plan to continue adding information to the Berner-Garde database as it comes available, including Koda's upcoming OFA test results. (OFA xrays scheduled for Aug 2, 2012)

First Vet Visit & What to feed your Berner

Today I loaded up 9 puppies and 4 kids, and we went on an excursion to the veterinarian's office.  I wish I could have taken a picture, but my hands were very full.  I'm sure we were quite a sight.

The vet gave each puppy a thorough exam, and then administered the 6 week shots.  Every single puppy looked, felt, and sounded perfect and healthy.  The vet and his techs were all very impressed with how well the puppies handled the experience - they were all calm, checking things out with wide eyes.  Once in a while, one would give a little whine, and we would reassure them, and pet them, and they would calm right down.  By the end of the hour-long experience, everyone's tails were still wagging.

Their next visit should be around 8 weeks, when they should receive their next set of shots, and another dose of wormer,

The puppies are also weaned, and are eating their puppy food wonderfully.  We feed them Purina Pro Plan LARGE BREED PUPPY kibble.  That large breed variety is very important for your Berner, regular puppy food will cause them to gain weight too quickly, and cause strain on their joints and hips, which can lead to hip dysplacia or other problems.  Keep them on the PUPPY formula until their first birthday, then you can transition them over to a large breed DOG food

A note about the Purina Pro Plan - Petco's perks program will award you free bags. 

I believe that for every 10 bags, they give you a free one (it must be within 

the same 12 month period).  It doesn't seem like much, but it adds

 up so quickly, so may be a good option for some owners. 

Make sure to ask about it if that is the food you choose to continue with.

Whatever you decide to feed your puppy, make sure you transition them to the new food, even if you are opting for a "raw diet".  All our puppies will come home with a small bag of Purina Pro Plan Large Breed Puppy food.  If changing foods, mix our dog food with your new dog food for a week to avoid too much digestive troubles. Slow transitions are good!  A good resource for berner-specific information on the different feeding options is HERE.

Housebreaking your Bernese Mountain Dog Puppy

Someone asked me the other day if I had any tips for housebreaking a new puppy.  All I could think to say was: "Patience.  Lots of patience."  Once I really sat back and thought about it, I realized that there were a few little things that helped us get through the experience, in addition to ALL THAT PATIENCE ;)

1. Crate Training - 

I am a huge advocate of crate training.  Not only does it help with housebreaking, but it also ensures your puppy's safety when you have to leave the puppy at home without supervision.  Dogs don't see it as a cage, they see the crate as their den. We train our dogs by using a key phrase: "Go to bed." When they go into the crate, they immediately get a treat.  It takes puppies a while before they will enter the crate of their own accord (who would want to stop playing?!), but keep the crate a positive place.  Our dogs crates are their very own space.  We don't force them to come out, we respect their den.  We will open the door to the crate, and within a little time, they will come out when they are ready.  Their crate has their blanket or dog bed, toys, whatever makes them feel like it is THEIR space.  People who come over notice that we will cover the crate when Dakota is barking at new people.  This helps her feel secure, and safe in her little den, despite the strangers.  Once she is calm and relaxed, then its a great time for her to come meet our new friends.  Remember, Berners are supposed to be aloof and stand-offish to strangers.  This is a great article by the US Humane Society about Crate Training.

Now, you're taking home a 12 pound puppy that will grow into a 100 pound dog ... how many crates are you going to need over the next year?!  ONE!!!  Shop around, and find an extra-large crate that offers a puppy divider.  It fits inside the crate, and makes the accessible space smaller or larger, depending on your need.  

2. Bell Training - 

The bell training method worked very well for us. Basically, you hang bells at your door, and every time you take the puppy out to go potty, you gently help them ring the bells with their front paw.  It takes a little patience, but fairly quickly, the puppy will start ringing the bells himself when he realizes that he needs to go out, and the bells alert the people: "Please let me out!" We bought our bells on Etsy from THIS SELLER, but you can buy them many places, or make them yourself.

3. Consistency - 

This may be the most important part of housebreaking your puppy.  Make a schedule, and set an alarm for yourself to take the puppy out at regular intervals.  Get to know your puppy.  We are noticing that some of the puppies relieve themselves before they eat, and others after they eat.  Get to know what your puppy's natural rhythm is and work with it.  

4. Housebreaking MYTHS - 

"Stick his nose in it" - REALITY: by sticking his nose in it, you teach him that "See this spot here?  Recognize it.  Smell it.  Get used to that smell, and its location" ... which means, "Use this spot, okay?"  No matter how upset you are when you put his nose in it, its not going to help at all.  Promise.

"Spank him with a newspaper" - REALITY: You are simply teaching him that you hit randomly.  He does NOT associate it with his accident, and all this will tell him is: "I'm dangerous to be around because at any random moment, I will smack you FOR NO REASON."

Using these housebreaking myths are detrimental to your dog's potty training experience.  Its true for all dogs, but ESPECIALLY a Berner.  Because they are so very sensitive to their humans, becoming angry or frustrated teaches your puppy to be shy and fearful.  Be patient and kind!  Your puppy WILL get the hang of it, and your dog's long-term relationship with you, and all people will be determined, in part, by his housebreaking experience. 

If you ever have trouble or concerns with housebreaking your puppy, talk to your veterinarian!  They can make sure that your puppy is doing fine physically, and give you suggestions and ideas tailored to you and your dog!

Grooming a Berner

"So, do Bernese Mountain Dog shed?"

Cue the laughter ... more laughter ... crying while laughing so hard.

YES, Berners do shed.  Similar to a golden retriever or other nice fluffy dogs.  Most the time, if we vacuum regularly, we don't see much dog hair.  But twice a year, we have THE BLOW OUT!  This is when the Berner sheds its coat heavily, and for us, it happens around the time summer and winter start.  Right now, Dakota is getting a double whammy - summer has just begun, plus she just had puppies. Just like when women loose some hair after giving birth, mama dogs lose fur from those hormone changes.

This is one light stroke of the brush from this morning.  I am using an undercoat deshedding comb.  This is a GREAT tool for deep grooming during the blow-out time.  Its the same thing as a "Furminator", but I bought a knock-off brand deshedding tool at Target.  We don't use it often, pretty much only when Dakota is blowing her coat, but its worth every penny during that time!

After 15 minutes of using the deshedding tool!  Each little clump is about the size of my fist.  I don't know how Dakota still has fur left on her, but she does!  I will probably comb her out like this 1 more time.  It makes the blowing of the coat much more manageable.

For regular daily . . . weekly . . . whenever maintenance, I use a combo brush.  

It works well for us, the metal side keeps tangles at bay, and the soft bristles keep the coat smooth and pretty.

I'm not a fan of the "Slicker" brushes ... Dakota hates them, and they seem to hurt her.  I'm not sure if that's all Berners, or just ours though.  Its not a brush we keep around though.  

The deshedding tool and combo brush are the two brushes we keep around.  The deshedding tool isn't one you need while they are a little puppy, more around a year old.  The combo brush is great from the beginning, and we use them on our puppies from the very beginning so they grow accustomed to being groomed.

Now, once your dog is brushed, that is NOT the end of grooming!  

Your dog's nails need to be kept trimmed short.  If they walk on sidewalks often, the concrete may wear down the nails enough, but usually they need a trim every once in a while.  We start trimming puppies nails at just a week old - those baby nails grow fast and sharp!  

There are two tools we use for dog-nail-care.  

First off, is a regular nail trimmer:

If you've never trimmed a dog's nails before, don't worry, its not hard.

If you do accidentally cut the nail too short, you may cut into the "quick", and it will start bleeding.  It happens to the best of us, so just make sure you have some quick-stop / styptic powder on hand.  You just stick some of it on the bleeding nail, and it helps the blood coagulate quickly.  Without it, the bleeding can be very difficult to stop.

Another option we use is the "PediPaws" trimmer.

Its basically a nail file for dogs, its quick and fairly easy.  Dakota does not like it - we bought it when she was already a year old, and she hasn't gotten accustomed to it.  We have been using it on the puppies from week 2, and none of them seem to mind it at all.  

Those are our main grooming tools.  Sometimes we'll use hair scissors to trim the hair around the paws, or in the ear, but that is a rare occurrence.  If our dogs seem to have tartar build-up, we use a dog toothbrush, but usually their rawhide bones keep their teeth quite clean.  

BATHS

We don't do full baths (or showers) very often.  Typically we will spot-clean with a wet wash cloth.  The nice thing about Berners is that their beautiful thick coat seems to repel dirt and water. When they just NEED bathed, we use the big master shower, and a removable shower-head for easy use.  We use gentle DOG or PUPPY shampoo (never human shampoo!).  Make sure to rinse all the soap out of your dog's fur - this is easier said than done sometimes!  Once they are done, we usually have 3-4 towels ready, and hand dry as much as possible.  However, Berners can be hard to get all the way dry!  One of the best tools I use is a hair-dryer on cool (no heat), and blow their coat dry.  We do this with our puppies, and they seem to love it - more than half of them fell asleep while I was using the blow dryer on them!  

There you have it!  Grooming a Berner can be very involved, but if you keep up on the small things, then it is very manageable!  

Is a Bernese Mountain Dog right for you?

For me, the biggest questions of compatibility are these:

1. Will this be an indoor or outdoor dog?  If you are looking for an outdoor dog, please find a different breed.  Bernese Mountain Dogs *NEED* to be with their family.  They need to be able to be close to their people, able to see them, hear them, and be near them.  Leaving a berner alone for extended periods of time will stress them out, and create a perfect storm for bad behavior.  Crate training is a good option for when you aren't able to be home.  A crate, in a main room (such as a family room or kitchen), works very well and keeping a berner out of trouble and harm while you aren't home, especially while they are a puppy.  Also, Berners are not suited to hotter climates, so having them indoors helps them stay cooler.

2. Can you deal with shedding?  Berners DO shed.  The more you brush them out, the less hair you'll find in your house, but they do have a couple times a year when they blow out their coat, and its hard to keep up.  If dog hair has you in a panic, and you hate vacuuming, then this isn't the breed for you!

3. Can you love and lose? Bernese Mountain dogs have a shorter life expectancy than most breeds, and can have health issues.  There is a Swiss saying: "Three years a puppy, three years a good dog, three years an old dog and the rest is a gift".  However, most of us who love the breed, feel like any amount of time with a Berner is a beautiful gift.  These dogs will love you dearly for their lives, and be bonded to you always. As for health, we are working to breed out health issues, but they are still there, and can still happen to any dog, regardless of their genetic health.  To me, it is worth the shorter life span, and the health risks to be able to always have the love of a Berner in our home.

There's plenty of other considerations to think of before bringing a Bernese Mountain Dog home (or any dog!), but those are my top three.  There's a lot of compatibility quizzes online, and some of them give great input, while others put importance on items that I don't find to be as much a concern.  They are great sources of information though, and can bring up concerns that may not have been thought of.